Hi! We were there in 1994 and went on the Via Dolorosa in teh old city. The streets were very narrow, about one donkey wide

and lined with kiosks selling all kinds of stuff. Sun glasses, tapes of wailing Arabic music which blared from boom boxes (remember this was the '90s) clothes, herbs, flowers, open air meat stalls with the heads still on teh animals so you could see what you were buying, sheep or goat; the guys dressed completely Western but sometimes had a khaffiya scarf on their shoulders. Women wore trench coats adn scarves. Adorable children.
Hardly any wood used in construction. All brick, concrete or stone. Even utility poles made of metal and new construction all stone and concrete.
We were there during some days with temps in teh 40s. While we wore windbreakers the Arab workers wore Carhartts and looked miserable -- just as we would if we were there in days of 120 degrees.
Almost all the cars were white or light gray with tinted windows. All had red adn white striped reflector tape on teh bumpers. Why, I don't know.
wall-to-wall people; kids selling candy, trinkets and film; bakers' assistants carrying piles of gorgeous breads in head-pans; teh street department gunning through with a rider mower and wagon and running over one guys' foot; we bought some trinkets from a boy and asked him about his name and age and family while we bargained with him.
in one shop, since DH and I were obviously the youngest, poorest members on the tour -- as we talked about picking out mother-of-pearl pins for our moms, the shop keeper threw in extras. I guess because he overheard us talking about our mothers. Another shop keeper offered coffee but then felt he had to warn us it was very *strong* coffee and made like a weight-lifters' gesture and grinned.
Sorry, I don't have much sense of smell so nothing stands out
What tickled me was seeing men greet each other not just with a nod, smile and hand-shake but hugs and kisses and slaps on teh back.
In rural areas, people often had orange and lemon trees in their yards like we would have apple trees.
In Bethlehem we waited on a shepherd to to get his sheep across the road and saw a boy leading a donkey with Jerry cans of kerosene on it, going home for Mom's stove and-or refrigerator. Gorgeous oriental carpets rolled up leaning against a wall. Tree tops showing over garden walls.
I have never seen a more deep blue sky.
I wrote a prayer on a scrap of paper and tucked it into a crack of the Western wall. On the men's side a bar-mitzvah was going on and the many of the men wore prayer shawls and phylacteries (bindings on the foreheads and hands holding Scripture) I got chills up on the Temple Mount thinking this was where Jesus walked, teh glory of God came down and filled Solomon's temple.
Very meaningful trip. Would love to go back with the kids.
Ann