Edwardian Tea Time Costume, Boston

honeybaby

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A young lady, not of high standing, wears a yellow chiffon tea gown to serve tea to a gentleman in Boston. What else is she wearing? Does she wear a hat? Does she wear gloves? Shoes? Stockings? How high? How are they held up? Are they embroidered? The more specific the better. (She happens to have some experience in millinery, so I can go to town on the hat, if she wears one.)

What is the garment closest to her skin? If she removes her bloomers will she be exposed?
 

Belle_91

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I think she wears a hat. I know in the 1860s if you went somewhere without a hat you weren't considered fully dress. Positive she would have worn gloves, and shoes and stockings. I believe the stockings are held up by ribbon, at least they were in the 1860s.

Garment closest to her skin would be her chemise. If she doesn't wear blooms I don't think she would be exposed-at least not that anyone could see-because the dresses go at least to the ankle if not the floor. But techincally she would be going comando.
However, some ladies-again in the 1860s-did have crotchless bloomers.

Sorry if that was too much information.

*Edit by bloomers do you mean pantalets. Pantalets were undergarments, while bloomers were pants that were worn under a short skirt.
 

honeybaby

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Oh, there is some confusion about the term bloomers historically. I mean drawers, I think, or what you describe as pantalets. The question I have is would a lady wear any covering beneath her drawers? Also, would she wear a slip of any kind? Does the chemise only cover her top half?

The Edwardian Era is usually thought to take place between 1901 and 1910, although there is certainly continuity with the Victorian Era.

In the kind of stories I write skirts will be lifted ;-)
 
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Soccer Mom

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Here is what she would be wearing underneath: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1346-JUDY-PAHL-.gif

http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/FW203.gif

Those are actually patterns for making Edwardian garmets. All the detail you could want.

Here are some great pics of Edwardian dresses.

http://www.victoriana.com/edwardianfashions/edwardiandresses.php

Was she inside or out? Outside, she would most certainly have a hat on. Inside, likely not. They weren't as big on gloves during this time period.
 

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Thank you. That Victoriana site is great.

She's inside and she's not particularly fussy or well-to-do, though she plays at the margins of high society. She isn't quite demimondaine. I would say she is liberated and self-possessed.

There is some suggestion that she identifies as a woman of color though her features suggest she could pass for white. She is not a so-called "tragic mulatta," but in some respects she may not conform to societal expectations. If there were ways to suggest a knowing disregard of sartorial conventions for the sake of comfort, pleasure or personal expression, I would be interested in those.

At some point she absolutely must wear a pair of over-the-knee red leather boots.
 

Soccer Mom

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Perhaps she could be a devotee of the Rational Dress Society, dedicated to woman wearing simpler more practical clothing, especially for sporting or athletic pursuits. They were opposed to corsets, crinolines, and other restrictive clothing.
 

Evangeline

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A young lady, not of high standing, wears a yellow chiffon tea gown to serve tea to a gentleman in Boston. What else is she wearing? Does she wear a hat? Does she wear gloves? Shoes? Stockings? How high? How are they held up? Are they embroidered? The more specific the better. (She happens to have some experience in millinery, so I can go to town on the hat, if she wears one.)

What is the garment closest to her skin? If she removes her bloomers will she be exposed?

Is she serving tea at home? If she were having tea with a gentleman in a tea room, she would leave her hat on. She would always wear gloves at tea (they were removed only when eating dinner), her shoes would likely be slippers that matched her tea gown, and her stockings would be plain white silk and held up by garters at the knee or mid-thigh.

An Edwardian woman's typical undergarments were (in order):

Combinations
Chemise
Corset
Camisole
Knickers
Petticoats

She would probably wear a ribbon corset beneath a teagown, and most likely dispense with the petticoats, but a woman would never be naked beneath her garments (and for that matter, neither would men: they wore union suits or Jaeger suits beneath their shirts, trousers, waistcoats, and jackets/coats).

At some point she absolutely must wear a pair of over-the-knee red leather boots.

The only over-the-knee boots a lady would find during the early 1900s would be fishing boots or old-style (i.e. 17th century) boots made for a costume ball. Otherwise, if your image is of a modern, sexy stripper type over-the-knee boot, it's historically inaccurate.
 
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honeybaby

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Thank you, Evangaline. That is so helpful. White silk stockings and slippers to match the dress it is.

I got the impression from the Edwardian Promenade article on the tea gown that a woman might not wear a corset at afternoon tea, but it isn't clear. Thanks for your input.

As for the red leather boots, they are hand-made, magical and an extremely personal gift. Thus they need not conform to the fashion of the day. I don't think the sexual provocation of over-the-knee riding boots can be avoided, but I hope when she wears them she looks more like a dominatrix than a stripper in the minds of readers. Perhaps she will wear some sort of riding habit that will accentuate the image of the powerful woman while at the same time making a gesture towards propriety--and if she's feeling bold she won't ride sidesaddle but astride her horse. I'm still not sure how to work it all out, but I am sure the boots are made for her and she wears them.
 

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Gloves would have been up to the elbow and would have had tiny buttons where the wrist is. The buttons would be undone and the hand taken out of the glove bit and tucked up. This would mean that the lady still had her gloves on but she could pour tea and eat without soiling her gloves. Corsets were worn with most gowns as many women, at that time, started to wear corsets at a very young age. This had a detrimental effect on certain muscles which meant that the women could not go without them. Somewhere I have a pair of gloves that belonged to my grandmother which have the buttons - they fit me (I have small hands) but getting my hand in and out of the glove bit without looking as if I was having a fit needed a lot of practice. Might be a good bit of descriptive writing there!

Try this site: http://www.costumes.org/ one of the best! Well, in my opinion.
 

honeybaby

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That's a great site, Shakesbear.

I like the detail of the wrist buttons. It's perfect!

I'm wondering about whether she might wear an emancipation bodice (liberty bodice). The year I reckon is precisely 1911. As far as I can tell corsets, though still common, were becoming less and less the fashion. The idea of an emancipation bodice fits in well with some themes of the piece. My heroine doesn't care enough about fashion to have truly been a votary of the Rational Dress Society, but its influence may yet have been felt.
 

Evangeline

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The tea gown was initially invented for very informal, indoor entertaining, and later took a sensual connotation when women realized they made having affairs easier (all that undressing and taking off of corsets was too much work!). There were lounging-type tea gowns, casual-type tea gowns which were a bit more formal, and evening tea gowns. I think that for propriety's sake, an unmarried woman having tea with a man would always wear a corset beneath her tea gown.

Also, gloves were of varying lengths, depending on the outfit, time of day, etc. Daytime gloves were usually just to the wrist, and they always remained on during afternoon tea.
 

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Oh no, Evangeline! I already had her unbutton the gloves and make a show out of it. I just loved writing "her naked fingers" after stripping them bare. Now I need to think about editing.

I should say that my lady character is unorthodox and does not have marriage in mind with this gentleman. There is a moment when she is quite concerned about her gloves becoming ruined by certain indelicate handlings.

As for her corset, I went with an emancipation bodice. I couldn't resist the symbolism.
 

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Oh no, Evangeline! I already had her unbutton the gloves and make a show out of it. I just loved writing "her naked fingers" after stripping them bare. Now I need to think about editing.

I should say that my lady character is unorthodox and does not have marriage in mind with this gentleman. There is a moment when she is quite concerned about her gloves becoming ruined by certain indelicate handlings.

As for her corset, I went with an emancipation bodice. I couldn't resist the symbolism.

Keep it--after all, it's your story, and your heroine is rather unconventional.
 

Alessandra Kelley

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The hat rule is simple. Ladies always wear a hat (or hair ornament) outside of their homes, and never inside. Thus no hostess of a tea party would ever wear a hat, but every lady guest of hers would. If serving tea in public, of course she would wear a hat. For a lady to go hatless in public was considered a sign of a disordered mind. Gentlemen wore hats outdoors and in large public spaces, but not in private.

Gloves are never worn in one's own house. Ladies wear gloves for shaking hands and dancing, but, as Miss Manners says, "if a lady so much as touches anything to eat or drink with a glove on, warts will grow all over the hand underneath". To wear gloves while eating anything was considered disgusting and uncouth. There is at least one old Punch cartoon showing the ritual of ladies searching under the table after dinner for all the gloves that slipped away while they were eating.

The length of the glove always depends on the length of the dress sleeve. Tea gowns always had long sleeves, so the lady would wear very short gloves.

A lady of the Edwardian age would try to have frothy petticoats under her gown.
 

oldhousejunkie

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If she is at home, serving tea, then no she would not wear a hat. If she was visiting someone for tea or having tea in public, then yes she would wear a hat. Don't forget to add a veil to her hat if she is in a car. Sorry, I love those types of hats from the turn of the century. :) She would carry a purse to someone's house or out in public. She would wear gloves as well. Gloves may or may not be worn at home to serve tea and may depend upon who she is serving.

At the turn of the century, undergarments and clothing were in transition. By then, panalets/drawers were known as bloomers, so you are correct in that term. At this time she would wear those and a camisole, plus a corset, petticoats, and stockings. I'm not sure if corset covers were out by then since corsets were mass produced and readily available--protecting them was no longer a priority.

Even though this young lady is not of high standing, the lower classes took their cues from the upper classes. The main differences in dress would be that a young lady of lower standing would buy mass produced clothing, where as a lady of the upper class could still afford to have clothes made for her by a modiste (dressmaker).

I don't know where you are, but museums that house good costume collections are always fun to visit. I'm thinking specifically of the V&A in London which often has even the undergarments on display. Also the Met in NYC has a good collection as does the Smithsonian.

I have a lovely green silk evening gown from this period. It's trimmed in black lace and is shot through with gold thread. The detail always amazes me when I pull it out of storage!

Good luck!


A young lady, not of high standing, wears a yellow chiffon tea gown to serve tea to a gentleman in Boston. What else is she wearing? Does she wear a hat? Does she wear gloves? Shoes? Stockings? How high? How are they held up? Are they embroidered? The more specific the better. (She happens to have some experience in millinery, so I can go to town on the hat, if she wears one.)

What is the garment closest to her skin? If she removes her bloomers will she be exposed?