Button holes - a right pain in the......

mirandashell · Feb 19, 2015

sigh.

I just made a shirt. i'm quite proud of it cos it's my first one. But the button holes..... :rant:

In the end I gave up on them and just sewed the fronts together like an invisble hem. Luckily it's Grandad style so it looks fine.

I followed the instructions in the manual. I followed the instructions in my Bible of Couture Sewing. I watched a demo on Youtube.

But my machine just won't do it. It has a buttonhole setting. I have a buttonhole foot. Nope, won't do it. It will do top, one side and bottom but it won't go back the other way.

Help?

Maryn · Feb 19, 2015

My first guess is that it's expecting you to stop at the end of one side and the bar tab at the botton, leave the needle inserted in the fabric, and turn it around.

My elderly machine has buttonhole cams (how quaint!) but they're not very good. I can make a better buttonhole with the zigzag stitch at two widths and my stitches' length close to but not at zero. Using wide zigzag, I do a tab at the top. (The 1 in the diagram below.) I leave the needle inserted in my cloth at the right side of the tab. I lift the presser foot and move the zigzag setting to half the width of the top tab. I lower the presser foot and stitch down one side in tight zigzag, the stitches so short no cloth shows through. (The 2 in the diagram.) Leave the needle in the cloth at the right again. Lift presser foot and adjust the zigzag width to the wider one I used on the top tab. Lower presser foot, create bottom tab. (The 3 in the diagram.) Leave the needle in at the left. Lift presser foot, rotate the garment 180 degrees. Lift needle from cloth carefully, then lower by hand-to-wheel so its next insertion will be almost touching the buttonhole edge already completed. Insert needle, lower presser foot, and stitch the buttonhole edge up to and a few stitches over the first tab. (The 4 in the diagram.) Pull free, clip threads to an inch or less, and finally pull them to the inside. Clip the cloth between the two narrow rows of zigzag stitch, taking care not to cut any threads. A seam ripper can help you get started until you can insert a scissors blade.

Not bad for a machine which is about forty now, and was cheap in the first place.

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44 22
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44 22
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Maryn, hoping that made sense

mirandashell · Feb 19, 2015

Ermmmmmm...

Thank you for trying! LOL!

It's the buttonhole setting on the machine I'm having the problems with. I thought it was supposed to just do it. Sigh.

I shall write down what you've given me, Maryn, and try it on my machine.

Thank you.

Orianna2000 · Feb 19, 2015

Is it a four-step buttonhole or a one-step? My old machine did four-step buttonholes and it was a PAIN in the tushie. I actually did hand-bound buttonholes every time, rather than deal with the four-step buttonholes. You had to pull the fabric through while it sewed, because the feed dogs wouldn't work. If you didn't, it would just zigzag back and forth in one place for ten minutes, ruining whatever you were trying to make.

My new machine has one-step buttonholes, which are a breeze. You line up the fabric in the right spot, lower the presser foot, hit the pedal, and it does the entire thing automatically. SO MUCH NICER! I'm not afraid to use the machine's buttonholes anymore. Which is good, because my hand-bound buttonholes sucked.

Old Hack · Feb 19, 2015

If your machine is relatively new you might well have a local dealer who could give you a bit of training on how to do this. I have a brilliant shop near me which runs all sorts of training and courses, and they're so helpful. They don't stock my make of machine but they still let me go in with it, and helped me out with a couple of things I was struggling with.

Maryn, I like your instructions. Very helpful.

Alessandra Kelley · Feb 20, 2015

Thanks for those instructions, Maryn. My machine is basic but it does zigzag stitching, and when I use it for buttonholes I use that technique.

Ken · Feb 20, 2015

if all else fails, employ a needle and thread

Alessandra Kelley · Feb 20, 2015

Buttonholes by hand are time consuming and a pain in the tush to sew.

Some of the first specialty sewing machines made as early as the 1860s were devoted to buttonhole sewing. It was a huge deal and time-saver.

I actually do sew most of my buttonholes by hand, but I am a hobbyist and find it relaxing. I would probably go mad if I had to sew buttonholes regularly.

mirandashell · Feb 20, 2015

Orianna2000 said:
Is it a four-step buttonhole or a one-step? My old machine did four-step buttonholes and it was a PAIN in the tushie. I actually did hand-bound buttonholes every time, rather than deal with the four-step buttonholes. You had to pull the fabric through while it sewed, because the feed dogs wouldn't work. If you didn't, it would just zigzag back and forth in one place for ten minutes, ruining whatever you were trying to make.

Yep! That's exactly what mine does! And pulling the fabric through makes it really difficult to get the tension the same on both sides.

Does anyone make a machine that only makes buttonholes? One-step preferably! LOL!

Alessandra Kelley · Feb 20, 2015

mirandashell said:
Yep! That's exactly what mine does! And pulling the fabric through makes it really difficult to get the tension the same on both sides.

Does anyone make a machine that only makes buttonholes? One-step preferably! LOL!

Apparently so, since at least the 1860s.

There seem to be a lot of industrial suppliers of buttonhole machines, new and refurbished:
http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/cat86/
http://www.amfreece.com/d285-eyelet-buttonhole-machines.html
http://www.stocks.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machines/industrial-button-buttonhole-sewing-machine.html
http://www.rowlson.co.uk/shop-pages/products-uk-used-machines-durkopp-adler-578-button-hole.html
http://www.advance-enterprises.co.uk/section/175/1/button_hole
https://www.hobkirk.co.uk/industrial-sewing-machines-used

Some less industrial places:

http://www.brother.com/as_oc/ism/lock/buttonhole/
http://www.miamisewing.com/specials/buttonhole&buttonsew.htm

mirandashell · Feb 20, 2015

Ooooh thank you! I shall check out the prices.

MaryMumsy · Feb 20, 2015

I have a sturdy old Singer, purchased new in 1968. I opted not to go for bells and whistles. It does zig-zag, but not button holes. I bought an attachment just for button holes. You remove the presser foot and clamp this thing on. Works a dream. I knew about it because Mom had one for her circa 1945 Singer. She used to make all my clothes when I was little, including a wool coat. Perfect button holes every time.

MM

Ken · Feb 21, 2015

Inspected a buttonhole to find out what would be entailed in making one, manually. I had no idea they were that involved and time consuming like you say. Yikes! That's gotta be the hardest part of making a shirt. If you can do that by machine then machines are awesome for that alone.

mirandashell · Feb 21, 2015

Tell me about it! Saves so much time which is why I'm seriously considering paying extra just for a button hole maker.

Ken · Feb 22, 2015

If you can get one for 20 pounds or so I'd say that'd be a good investment.

ps Cool you made a shirt.

Filigree · Feb 22, 2015

I have a buttonhole attachment for the Elna I bought in 1998, but I'm ashamed to say I've never used the attachment. I always sew holes the way Maryn describes. Once - once! - I did fancy couture buttonholes* with inlaid plackets and invisible seaming, but that was for three bigger buttons on a coat. Can't imagine them with tiny shirt buttons!

One thing that saved me was ironing a square of interfacing behind where the buttonhole will go. That does make the sewing and cutting easier.

* Like this search string:https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...sedr...0...1c.1.62.img..0.19.1518.sbWPaYhmPI0

Orianna2000 · Feb 22, 2015

I don't know how much buttonhole machines are, but you can get a sewing machine that does one-step buttonholes for around $80. Like this one, the Brother XL2600I.

The one I had was a bit more expensive, it was the Singer Stylist, which is currently selling for around $165. But it's computerized and has a lot of auto-features. My current machine is the Singer Quantum Stylist Touch, which sells for around $550, but it's an awesome machine and does lovely buttonholes. The best feature? When you're done sewing, you just tap a button and it automatically cuts the thread and raises the needle for you. I'm utterly spoiled by it.

Old Hack · Feb 22, 2015

Ken said:
If you can get one for 20 pounds or so I'd say that'd be a good investment.

ps Cool you made a shirt.

I'd say it would be an amazing investment. Good sewing machines with features like that cost a LOT more than £20.

Orianna2000 said:
I don't know how much buttonhole machines are, but you can get a sewing machine that does one-step buttonholes for around $80. Like this one, the Brother XL2600I.

The one I had was a bit more expensive, it was the Singer Stylist, which is currently selling for around $165. But it's computerized and has a lot of auto-features. My current machine is the Singer Quantum Stylist Touch, which sells for around $550, but it's an awesome machine and does lovely buttonholes. The best feature? When you're done sewing, you just tap a button and it automatically cuts the thread and raises the needle for you. I'm utterly spoiled by it.

I have a Janome Horizon 7700. It was a gift from a very kind friend, who inherited it and had no use for it. It's a lovely machine, but even so, its buttonholes are not the best.

http://absolutewrite.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

Filigree · Feb 22, 2015

Mmm, the Janome machines. When I take my Elna in for tune-ups at my local sewing machine place (King's, in Mesa) I always drool at the Janome pretties. If money were no object, I'd get one of the really high-end machines and invest in vector software to translate my own designs and text to embroidery. My artwork would have so much more dimension then. I wouldn't have to do so much hand embroidery. Alas, that is a daydream right now.

I make do with the sturdy little Elna.

Old Hack · Feb 22, 2015

My Janome is wonderful: it's powerful, and fast, and mostly makes beautiful stitches. The huge throat-space makes working on big things so much easier.

But it really doesn't like the thicker threads I like to quilt with: it will put up with them when I quilt in straight lines but for free motion quilting? It's terrible. It's in the menders again right now, because it's taken exception to my determination to quilt with thicker threads. It looks like my ancient Brother machine is what I'll use for that work in future.

Ken · Feb 22, 2015

Orianna2000 said:
you can get a sewing machine that does one-step buttonholes for around $80. Like this one, the Brother XL2600I.

Cute little machine

Old Hack said:
I'd say it would be an amazing investment. Good sewing machines with features like that cost a LOT more than £20.

Oops. Figured a buttonhole maker that just made buttonholes was up for consideration. A handheld contraption, which could be used independently of a machine. Seems like there'd be use of something of the sort, since buttonholes are common things to make.

harmonyisarine · Feb 22, 2015

I do buttonholes like Maryn, due to owing multiple very old machines that would laugh if you asked them to do one automatically. Though, frankly, I still prefer Maryn's method to the 4-step "automatic" one my mom's machine has.

And those couture buttonholes look like a nightmare. I'm moderately horrified at myself for wanting to go try to make some on scrap fabric.

mirandashell · Feb 22, 2015

Ken said:
If you can get one for 20 pounds or so I'd say that'd be a good investment.

ps Cool you made a shirt.

Thank you! I learnt a lot doing it. I'm now making a coat out of bright orange corduroy. I love orange.

mirandashell · Feb 22, 2015

Oops. Figured a buttonhole maker that just made buttonholes was up for consideration. A handheld contraption, which could be used independently of a machine. Seems like there'd be use of something of the sort, since buttonholes are common things to make.

So did I. The ones on the links looked good but I haven't found a price yet. Probably a lot more than $20 unfortunately.

Ken · Feb 23, 2015

mirandashell said:
I'm now making a coat out of bright orange corduroy. I love orange.

Orange is a nice color and corduroy a nice fabric. Been wanting a pair of corduroy pants for the longest time. Especially for winter. Not sure if they are warmer than ordinary pants but the material seems to be thicker and more insulating. And it's a neat fabric. Probably would go for navy.

Button holes - a right pain in the......

mirandashell

Maryn

Baaa!

mirandashell

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer

Old Hack

Such a nasty woman

Alessandra Kelley

Sophipygian

Ken

Alessandra Kelley

Sophipygian

mirandashell

Alessandra Kelley

Sophipygian

mirandashell

MaryMumsy

the original blond bombshell

Ken

mirandashell

Ken

Filigree

Mildly Disturbing

Orianna2000

Freelance Writer

Old Hack

Such a nasty woman

Filigree

Mildly Disturbing

Old Hack

Such a nasty woman

Ken

harmonyisarine

mirandashell

mirandashell

Ken