Quick Car Repair

Couple of random ideas that might be a bit too UK centric...

1) I used to have a problem with my ABS (braking assistance) activating randomly when braking, meaning the dashboard light for it would come on and the car made a weird whirring noise while it tried to activate. Ordered a new ABS sensor fairly cheaply, and my brother was able to just take off a wheel and replace it with no specialist equipment

2) A friend's car would cut out every time he drove through a large puddle as there was a dodgy connection somewhere to the engine that just gave up whenever it was wet. He carried a can of WD40 in the car, when it happened he just needed to spray it all over everything under the bonnet and it worked again (not particularly technical that one...)

3) If you want your MC1 to be pretty clueless, I once took my car to a garage to fix the central locking system, when it turned out to just need a new battery in the key fob

Captcha said:

The WD40 is just crazy enough to work...

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Not crazy -- that's what its designed to do. The WD stands for Water Displacement.

Snapped fanbelt - seen a stocking used as a quick repair.
We had a problem once with the rotor arm and distributor cap. Can't quite remember but our team medic got it going with a piece of tin-foil??

A nice problem is a short circuit that only happens when it rains. Result is that it blows the fuse in the circuit. Can be something like the headlights, or the radio, or shut the car down. Take your pick. You wait for it to dry, and pop in a new fuse and you're good to go. Annoying but survivable.

But a better solution is to get a circuit breaker and use that instead of a fuse. It shuts off, then resets, and does it all without you having to do a thing. So that gives your other MC a chance to show off and "solve" the problem, which is repetitive.

Best of luck,

Jim Clark-Dawe

Old spark plug wires will act up under humid/wet weather conditions. To be precise, they're not real wire (metallic core) and haven't been since the advent of electronic ignitions (no points). Instead it's usually carbon impregnated cloth surrounded by some degree of insulation. Over time the insulation succumbs to the hostile engine environment (heat, fuel, etc.), deteriorates, and allows arcing to ground thus disrupting the spark firing cycle. Moisture aggravates the situation (one reason why WD-40 can seem to be an almost magical - albeit temporary - fix).

It's one of those problems that can drive you nuts trying to figure out what's wrong with your seemingly capricious and temperamental vehicle. The only cure is complete replacement of all spark plug wiring; but don't get them mixed up in the process - that's another headache (and can be a serious fire hazard).

Captcha said:

And I like the new battery idea, but would a ten-year-old economy car have remote locking? I'm having trouble remembering how old that technology is.

Thanks!

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Yes. My '97 Saturn had a remote. The car locked me in once and wouldn't let me out. I used the episode to open one of my detective novels.

You can read the sample here to see how I handled it. (I didn't get shot at, though.)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q3E4PG/?tag=absowrit-20

OP: A common sporadic problem with older cars is overheating, often because of a stuck thermostat or sludge in the coolant lines. Or a slipping fan belt. A leak can cause it too.

Hmmm...

Captcha said:

So it could be installing the fuse and then later on installing the circuit break, or it could be spraying with WD-40 and then later on rewiring the spark plugs? How big of a job is rewiring the plugs? Is it something he could do in the driveway with a few tools and some patience, or would he need a garage and specialized tools?

- Replacing the spark plug wires is relatively easy. The new wires typically come as a kit with the distributor/plug boots already installed. Tools shouldn't be needed, unless an old boot is stuck - a pair of pliers or a spark plug boot removal tool might be employed, but hand strength is usually sufficient.

Old mechanic's trick - replace one wire at a time... That's to prevent botching up the spark timing (sending a spark to the wrong cylinder in the wrong moment of crankshaft rotation. That can cost you an engine.)

ETA: and am I right to as ume that in the case of the spark plugs, if something is "disrupting the spark firing cycle" the engine just wouldn't start at all? Would it make that wurr-wurr-wurr almost grinding sound, or just a click, or...?

- If the engine is running and the spark begins arcing (going to any nearby ground instead of the spark plug gap, assuming a negative ground electrical system), it starts misfiring, running ragged and losing power. It may even stall (completely shut down). It might restart- or not. Trying to restart may introduce live spark into an area ripe with fuel fumes and grease - see the potential problem?

ETA2: Google tells me that the symptoms are different than what I guessed - of course! I think I found a fairly sensible guide to it all, at http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...et/content_article-change-spark-plug-wires___
So unless that's a terrible source for some reason - I'm all set!

- No worries - that's a good info source...

Best of luck!

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I don't know anything about cars, but keep in mind that for certain models, a ten-year-old economy car won't lead to the assumption that there's anything wrong with it. I drive a twelve-year-old Toyota Corolla, and have never had to do anything but regular maintenance -- I also don't feel in the least like it's in its last days; it'll probably last me many more years, and it doesn't feel at all "old" to me in comparison with other people's cars. My friends who drive Toyotas and Hondas all have pretty solid cars -- I can think of a few other friends who drive Toyotas and Hondas in the thirteen-to-fifteen-year-old range, who could definitely afford new cars but keep driving their old ones because there's absolutely nothing wrong with them. And my mom's Hyundai is six years old now and still in perfect shape. So ten years old does not seem very old to me for a car at all!

In other words, make sure your MC's model of car is one that isn't super-reliable.

(And yes, remote locking has been around for a loooong time; many cars from the 90's have remote locking -- in fact, it's been around since the 80's, according to Wikipedia.)

slhuang said:

(And yes, remote locking has been around for a loooong time; many cars from the 90's have remote locking -- in fact, it's been around since the 80's, according to Wikipedia.)

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My '87 'vette has it.

Yeah, but that's a Corvette, not an economy car. Mostly only luxury cars would have that feature in the 80s.

But by 2003, many economy cars had remote locks. My Saturn did.

The engine runs rough because the air cleaner is clogged. The guys tears some fibers out of the air cleaner element, installs it back on and whoosh--more oxygen--better ignition--more power and the engine smooths out. Simple. And it's basic physics.

Tri--mechanic/tech--35 years.

Al Stevens said:

Yes. My '97 Saturn had a remote. The car locked me in once and wouldn't let me out. I used the episode to open one of my detective novels.

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Mine too, it's the most economy you could get with Saturn. '97 SW1 and it still works great.

I had an old Benz that got burned parts of the wire in the in the solenoid coil. If you just tried to start it up nothing happened because there was no connection where the burned parts touched. But if somebody stuck a broom handle down in the engine and banged on it while another person turned the key, the coil was jostled enough two unburned parts connected and it started right up.

Got a lot of weird looks that way. It tided me over while I saved up for a new solenoid.

For something simpler, the battery won't charge. That can be caused by a lot of simple things. Old battery. Battery connectors are dirty. Connector wires are worn through and need replacing, etc.

Canotila said:

For something simpler, the battery won't charge. That can be caused by a lot of simple things. Old battery. Battery connectors are dirty. Connector wires are worn through and need replacing, etc.

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We had a mysterious electrical problem with our 2001 Saturn recently.

The battery went dead, we jumped it, the car started, and ran fine for a few days.

We went away for two or three days in a different car and when we came back the battery was dead, again. We jumped it again, and it ran OK for a few days.

We then let it sit all weekend and come Monday, the battery was dead again.

At this point when we jumped it I went and had a new battery installed. The car worked fine for a few days until, once again, it was left sitting for three or four days (noticeably longer than the last times) and the new battery was dead.

Turns out the new battery was fine, the alternator was fine, and everything electrical in the engine was fine. The problem was there was a short in the TRUNK LATCH and the trunk light was never turning off when you closed the trunk. And, after the car sat for a few days with the trunk light on, it would drain the battery enough to where the car wouldn't start. (More quickly with the old battery then the new one)

That one was especially frustrating until we got it figured out.

Don't know if it helps, but a friend of mine was really impressed when I managed to get my car going again - the senario was this:

I drive a diesel and had let it run down to the line. I knew I was going to run out, so I filled up and carried on. But it was too low before filling so the fuel lines were emptying and because there was no suction the new diesel didn't get sucked up into the engine. A couple of miles up the road the car rolled to a stop.

But because I've had this problem before I knew there was a primer in the engine - in my car it looks like a little black balloon that's connected to the fuel lines. You squeeze it until it's full of fuel and then get back in and try to start the car. The fuel will be sucked up. Depending on how low the fuel level was you might need to do this twice.

The car will start then like magic.

For those who don't drive a diesel - if you don't have a primer on your car, or don't know where to find it - you need to get towed to get the engine started, which is a pain in the ass.

Starting problems would be most common. Corroded cables, worn insulation, etc. Move some cables, clean them, WD40 and you're going until next time.

Fuel pump issues maybe. Starter fluid or a splash of gas in a carb opening. Or a seriously clogged air filter you just bang on a curb to shake some dirt loose.

Stupid computers in cars are often an issue. Car won't run because it senses the wrong tire pressure or low oil when it's the sensor that's the issue. A reset code will temporarily fix the problem.

Slow oil leaks can be an issue too, just top off with a quart or two and you're good to go. Radiator coolant (water from a drainage ditch) or steering fluid, brake fluid, etc.

Jeff

It's been a looong time since I worked on my own car, because the cars nowadays are pretty much impossible for a layman to work on.

Here are a couple ideas though.

Cracked distributor cap. Back when I was a kid (and granted they rode yaks and dinosaurs back then) my mom had a GM station wagon that would die any time she had to go through a deep puddle. There were a lot of deep puddles in my very hilly hometown during spring, whenever it rained, so I spent a good part of my childhood with our car sitting on the side of the road waiting for help. Moisture in the distributor cap (whether just condensation or actual puddles) gets in there and douses the spark. The quick fix: get a blow drier (yes the hair kind) and dry it up. The permanent fix: get a new distributor cap. Not sure of the particulars on newer cars, but I think this one is still valid.

Back in the late 90s I had a 79 ? Toyota Corona station wagon. Every once in a while the electrical system would zap out for no known reason, generally while I was driving but sometimes when I'd parked. I'm betting it was a loose wire somewhere or something that was overheating, but we never actually did figure out the fix. Several times it left me on the side of the road (or the middle of the median). Invariably I'd call up my ex, he'd drive all the heck out to where I was, turn the key and that b***h would start right up. Whatever it was, time seemed to be the cure.

We presently have a Ford '96 F250 pickup, prone to vapor lock. This isn't a mechanical problem but a gas one. Either 1) in a highly humid area condensation can form in the gas tank. 2) high ethanol content (i.e. cheap) gas has a higher water content, which creates steam and thus condensation. The symptoms are that the car will suddenly start chugging and not have the power to go up a hill. Feels almost like it's out of gas, except you know you have a full tank. Quick fix, there are gas additives "Dry Gas" that will deal with this. Better fix: don't buy cheap crappy gas. We had to change gas stations and go with one that was a few cents more. Possibly a good way to go if your MC is trying to conserve money. I used to have a mechanic buddy whose motto was, "It's the cheap guy who spends the most."

I know this is a little old and you've probably written this section and moved on, but I've got some suggestions I'd like to share. I think it all depends on what kind of car you're saying is old. I say this because I have put down a book and walked away because the author didn't accurately state something auto related. Most recently I read from a famous well published author a sentence that went like, "they slid into his Honda Acura...." No... sorry, they didn't!

For instance, I actually can't think of a single car from 2003 (damn that's already 10 yrs ago, I'm getting old) that had a carburator. Also back then some cars had distributor caps and others had individual ignition coils for spark. (FYI if you have the part that can be repaired in a parking lot with just 1 ratchet wrench)

You could make the problem be a dead spot on the starter (all cars have those ) It would cause the car to click when the ignition was turned. You could keep trying to start it until the eventually started. Then the permanent fix would be a new starter. They aren't super hard to replace with a normal tool set. Any additional questions feel free to message me. Another possible cause of the problem could be clutch sensor switch (if it's a standard). Those are the two of the things that a knowledgeable person would suggest right off the bat, when they know that battery is fine.

I personally would make the car a little bit older if you want to make it at the end of its life. I'd say anything from the 90's. I say this because I junk cars for a living and these are the ones I see most often. Usually american and usually not running.

Captcha said:

The WD40 is just crazy enough to work...

And I like the new battery idea, but would a ten-year-old economy car have remote locking? I'm having trouble remembering how old that technology is.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

A ten-year-old car could have remote locking, absolutely.

By the way, that's not all that old for a car. We have an 18 year old and a 40 (!) year old. A 10 year old that's been taken care of well isn't all that bad.

One thing that I've seen a lot is the engine flooding, then you have to take out all the spark plugs and hope it dries... You can google it. I don't know much about this stuff, but my boyfriend rebuilds old cars as a hobby, so I've spent hours sitting around watching...

Another "fun" (I use this term loosely) problem is the engine stalling, which we've tried fixing with a spray of quick start. Sometimes that works. Sometimes it catches fire...