It's frustrating, isn't it? Books about the history of clothing are overwhelmingly dominated by upper class women's fashion in Europe and the US.
(I suspect this is an inherited artifact from the time -- not all that distant in the past -- when clothing history and books about it were considered unimportant and frivolous and left as a hobby for bored upper class women of Europe and the US.)
I gather you're not terribly interested in Euro-American fashion of the last thousand years? If I am mistaken please let me know and I will add in some excellent reference books for that millennium for men's clothing.
Although, I do recommend, if you have not got it already, Cut My Cote by Dorothy K. Burnham. It is an excellent deconstruction of medieval-type clothes and world ethnic clothes, showing how, when resources are handmade and scarce, the careful piecing together of simple rectangles leads to most of the clothing shapes we see in those milieux.
There seem to be only a limited number of books within the category of "costume history" that deal specifically with men's garments outside the same tired old ruts of Anglo-French (and occasionally Italo-German) upper class fashion.
There are some books that claim to cover Greece, Rome, and Egypt. They might be worth a look.
As for folk costume, it isn't generally as "ancient" as people like to pretend. "Folk" costume changes, just like other fashions. A Swiss shepherdess in a 1930s "folk" dirndl would stick out like a sore thumb in Switzerland in the nineteenth century, let alone mythic earlier ages. That said, Braun & Schneider's otherwise execrable Historic Costume in Pictures is excellent for a snapshot of what various world folk costumes looked like at that point in time. (Important!: Do not rely on Braun & Schneider for anything beyond pretty decorative late nineteenth century German engravings. It is truly awful and misleading as history, basically the anonymous adaptation of what anonymous engravers thought they might be seeing in old artworks -- maybe, because who knows what their source material actually was -- 'Shopped onto Victorian mannequins in pretty poses. Then umpteen low-rent "theater costume" authors basically traced Braun & Schneider's figures over and over again and presented them as if they were genuine history. Ugh. But enough digression.)
I find that to get a really broad, useful sense of the scope of possibilities of garments, it is necessary to step outside the bounds of "costume history".
There are many overlooked resources for clothing history, including fine art, archeology and ethnography.
There are books of paintings of Native Americans, Africans, and Australians made by fifteenth century explorers and later. There are books about books, paintings and other artworks peoples have made themselves showing themselves. National Geographic does a bang-up job showing the various Ice Age peat bog victims and Pre-Columbian American mummies and assorted other unfortunates, preserved with all their clothes and accessories. Viking burials turn up. Any number of anthropologists have written any number of volumes on the significance of garments and adornment in a vast swath of world cultures. China has done a stupendous job preserving the nuances of its fashion history for thousands of years. Greek vases and sculpture show a stunning variety of clothing beyond the stereotypical bedsheet chiton.
Explore beyond fashion history and you'll find a whole lot of fascinating, relevant material that isn't the same-old same-old.
